Saturday, September 29, 2007
Castelo de Rampolla
It has been owned by the Di Napoli Rampolla family since 1739
They have planted their vineyards extremely densely at 8000 plants per hectar.
Tuesday, July 17, 2007
Avignonesi of Montepulciano
In 1974 the Falvo brothers, owners of the vineyards in the district of Cortona, took over Avignonesi and refounded it investing greatly in viniculture, selecting the local varieties and introducing classical ones such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir.
Please excuse my rough notes as we were standing in the vineyards as it began to rain....
Avignonesi houses an agricultural school on the property
The winery and vineyards were originally in Montepulciano but the operation was moved in 1889 to Cortona to allow the business to grow.
Currently there are 4 estates planted in the DOCG of Montepulciano and the DOC of Cortona
The Falvo brothers played the primary role in helping elevate Cortona to a DOC in 1998.
Cortona as a DOC allows for a wide variety of different grape to be produced
Vineyards are planted in a spacing method that is called Aberello (meaning small tree, the same formation that roman solders line-up in): there are no wires between the wines as the vines are planted in hexagons. Every 60 degrees there is another tree planted which allows for tight spacing and a good amount of sun exposure. This causes the root systems to go deep into the subsoil. Average spacing is 7000 plants per hectare. Each vine produces only two-three bunches.
Organic farming is employed unless there are serious problems in the vineyards where as chemicals will be used to save fruit.
Students from the Florence Viticulture school come here to study and experiment.
Montipulciano could be divided into 3 main sub zones based primarily on elevation. The higher the elevation the more alluvial soil will be found in the vineyard. The lower the elevation the more clay which holds water.
Avignonesi being on the south side of town tends to have more clay. Corta alla Flora is at a higher elevation.
VIN SANTO (translated to english.....so fucking good!)
In a good year Avignonesi will only produce 1300 375ml of their vin santo!
Most producers age their Vin Santo on mats drying for 2 months. Avignonesi has an historic drying room which they lay out the grapes in and dry the wines for 6 months minimum.
Vin Santo is more about the yeast used than the grapes used.
Vin Santo Grapes are then aged in a hot room inside tiny barriques for 10 yrs! During the aging process about half of all the juice is lost. After the Vin Santo is finished a bottle can be open for an extremely long period of time as the juice is already Oxed.
1990 Vin Santo from Avignonesi received 100 points from the wine spectator which was only the second time a Italian wine had done that at the time.
Heavy mold in the cellar eliminates vinegar bacterias and seals the barrels from the air.
Before you ever produce VNdM you must get the plants from the Italian Government and declare how much you intend to produce
VNdM
85% Prunolo Gentile
10% Caninolo
5% Malmiolo
I will spare you my tasting notes but
THE DESIDERIO Merlot KICKS ASS!
or better said by JOE BEST "A smart man's Petrus"
Ciacci Piccolomini d Aragonia
bistecca florentina....perfect with a Magnum of 1998 Ciacci Brunello Reserva!
In 1985 at the age of 85 yrs old a countess did something unheard off in Italy. She gave her estate in south eastern Montalcino to her commoner groundskeeper Guisppe to care for after she passed away.
By the mid 90's Guisppe had planted his vines and was well on the way to making wine.
Quick Facts:
40 Hects planted in total
31 Sangiovese, Cabernet 3 , Merlot 3, Syrah 3
All harvesting is done by hand into plastic Bins. There are no machines used in harvesting.
The full harvest is completed by 25 people
The harvest typically happens between Sept 15th and October 14th
French and American oak Barriques are used
All Sangiovese is aged in large Slovenian oak casks
All fruit is 100% De stemmed
22 day Cold soak on the skins
Concrete Vats are used for fermentation, advantages of doing this are that this one of the traditional ways, it doesn't impart flavor, as long as there is no room for air the wine will virtually not age wine inside the vats, and its about 100-200 hl ability to "park" wine.
Farming is Organic
Quote of the tour:
"We don't make our wine for the scores. We want elegance, balance, and a sense of the tradition...We are modern traditional"
40 hects of Olive trees and honey production on the estate as well
Monteccuicco DOC is right next to montalcino. The estate is located in both a DOC and a DOCG.
Tasting Notes:
2005 Rosso di Montalcino
Supple, a bit fat for rosso lacking the rustic chianti type acidity. Purity of fruit is killer with lots of dried cherry. The rosso is vineyards are picked before the season starts
A very modern style rosso
Toscano Rosso 4,200 cases produced
lighter, fruitier, easy drinking, good tannin, long grip, short chain tannin. Classic tuscan table wine
2004 Ateo Supertuscan Red 1,100 cases produced
Blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet, and Merlot
Dark center, light edges, a bit of arm pit funk which is nice. Red fruit and dry yeast on the nose.
2002 Ciacci Brunello
Darker than the other brunellos we've seen on the trip. Beautiful know of roses, cranberries, mushroom, and cherries. Approachable for a brunello without lacking intensity. Silky, elegant, balanced with really well integrated oak.
2004 Fabius Sant Antimo Rosso of mostly syrah
The darkest thing we've seen in tuscany. Dark Blue fruit, black fruit, wet moist earth like what is smell like in the middle of a forest in Pacific northwest after a good rain. Graphite, baked blueberry palate. Spice, German chocolate all wrapped in cedar. Thick and awesome. (After transposing these notes I need to go find another bottle of this stuff)
Corte Alla Flora of Montepulciano
The wines are forward, focused, and extremely polished!
From: http://www.corteallaflora.it
"The vines grown “a cordone speronato” and pruned short, the fruit of modern techniques but also of traditional culture, give their best yield here.
This is our idea of quality: 5,200 plants per hectare, thinning out and harvesting by hand, a maximum production of 60 quintals per hectare"
We tasted:
2003 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG RISERVA
Grapes used: Prugnolo Gentile 90%, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon 10%.
Vinification: hand-picked in perforated boxes, destemming, fermentation in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperature (max. 28° C), maceration for 20 days with repeated remixing, racked off the lees and pressed gently with pneumatic bladder presses. Malolactic fermentation in tanks at 20° C, transferred into barrels.
Alcohol content: 13.5% vol.
Refining/maturing: 24 months in Allier barriques, then 12 months in bottle.
2004 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG
Grapes used: Prugnolo Gentile 90%, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon 10%.
Vinification: hand-picked in perforated boxes, destemming, fermentation in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperature (max. 28° C), maceration for 20 days with repeated remixing, racked off the lees and pressed gently with pneumatic bladder presses. Malolactic fermentation in tanks at 20° C, transferred into barrels.
Alcohol content: 13.5% vol.
Refining/maturing: 18 months in Allier oak cacks, then 10 months in bottle.
Corte alla Flora - Rosso Toscano IGT Super Tuscan
Extremely new world!
Grapes used: Cabernet Sauvignon 50%, Merlot 30%, Prugnolo Gentile 20%.
Vinification: hand-picked with selection of the grapes, destemming, fermentation in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperature (max 28°C), maceration from 15 (Prugnolo Gentile) to 30 days (Cabernet Sauvignon), racked off the lees and pressed gently. The wine is made just by the grapes of the first phase of the wine-making. Malolactic fermentation in tanks.
Alcohol content: 14% vol.
Refining/maturing: 12 months in Allier barriques, then 12 months in bottle.
Giuggiolo - Red Wine IGT Toscana
Grapes used: Prugnolo Gentile 100%.
Vinification: hand-picked in perforated boxes, destemming, fermentation in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperature (max. 28° C), maceration for 10 days with repeated remixing, racked off the lees and pressed gently with pneumatic bladder presses. Malolactic fermentation in tanks at 20° C, transferred into oak casks.
Refining/maturing: 6 months in oak casks, then 6 months in bottle.
Technical card
Grapes used: Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
Light, Fresh, and Fruity
Carmigliano
Crete- where the top soil in vineyards has washed away leaving bald spots where vines can't grow.
Owner of Carmigliano and Joe Best
Calanco- the red soil and rock that is typical of the area
Southwest facing vineyard soaking up the sun
Pete M is 7 '6 to give you perspective of this barrel
Campo al Mori
A Village Winery
Located in the South Western side of Montalcino
The village was established in the 1100's
Currently around 32 people live in the village
1957 Carmigliano was purchased by the current owners
Quote of the Tour- "Robert Parker doesn't like me"-owner of Carmigliano
Changes in the cellar over time have moved from producing all wines in Slovenian oak to larger french oak barrels made by Gamba.
Rosso di Montalcino
All grapes are farmed to the standards of Brunello. When the grapes arrive in the cellar it is determined which wine they will end up in
Rosso di montalcinos only see about 6 months in oak
Tasting Notes-
03 Brunello Barrel sample
Concentrated with dark color. Classic nose of earth, dusty cherries, and anise. Fatter on the palate with vibrant acidity and lots of primary fruits. New world brunello in the best way.
04 Brunello Barrel sample- 'like judging a mans life at the age of 8"
Beautiful, fresh, espresso and red fruit. This is going to be a keep.
Cabernet Sauvignon Sant Antimo DOC 600 cases produced
Dark Fruit, rich texture, soft, easy drinking. California cab in a Italian leather jacket. A bit more soul and earth and only framed in light french oak.
Sunday, July 15, 2007
Vitanza
Dinner and a winery tour with Rosealba Vitanza........
It's what I imagine entering the bat cave to be like. What looks like a very small guest house contains an elevator that brings you 80 meters under the hill to the completely high-tech winery.
She toured us through the cellar and allowed us to pick up some young and old vintages! The wines were all beautiful but the 2001 was really standing out as remarkable.
We tried Brunellos from 1997, 1998, 2001, 2001 Reserva and 2003.